Friday, October 6, 2023

Day 16 - Thursday - Mestia: Mountains, Villages, Medieval Towers, Oh my!

We're in the region of Svaneti, which is a super remote area in the Caucasus Mountains near the Russian border remarkably preserved from medieval times. Unreachable by car until 1935, Svaneti has maintained its own way of life for centuries. Its remote alpine location served as a refuge for Georgians during times of trouble, and many cultural and historical artifacts were transported here for safekeeping from the hands of invading armies. This area is best known for its medieval watchtowers. Family-owned and passed on from generation to generation, the towers have served multiple functions as barns, warehouses, cold storage and a show of wealth. Svaneti has at least 200 towers, the majority of which are in Mestia where we stayed.

Mestia is a high mountain village (1,500 meters), that is also a ski town and starting point for hikers. It is small (pop. 2,000), but there is a lot of construction going on as tourism is on the rise. Perhaps in part due to the cool factor that the Red Bull Lukvrame ski race brings to the town!






Diane and I went 45 km. further north to the little village of Ushguli. The drive was beautiful and a little bit of "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride."




Ushguli is the highest (7,218 ft.) continually inhabited village in Europe (though Georgia is not technically Europe). In the winter 20 people live here; in the summer, 200. This is where the road heading north ends.

The church: Lamaria (Virgin Mary)


St. Nino's Cross








These frescoes are original to the 12th century: never been restored!








Always accompanied by sweet dogs


The village: Ushguli


It's a dog's life, to be sure!










They're growing potatoes!
 






It's almost like we're walking through a medieval town, that's still inhabited - oh wait... we are!




Lunch at a local's home (with a cool dog!)






In the village of Mestia:




Cows walk freely through the streets - they go to their homes at the end of the day.

For dinner we went to the home of the Chamgeliani sisters, who are a singing trio who perform Svan folk music all over the world. They prepared an amazing meal of traditional dishes for us and sang throughout the evening. 


Here's a link to their music: click here

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